(no subject)

[lizzybennet]

After we left Lake Tai, we told the drive we wanted to go to the old town. He announced he wanted more money to take us there because it wasn't part of the original agreement. Apparently the hotel told him we were only going sightsee around the lake. We agreed to pay him another 100 rmb which quickly satisfied him.


This is a shot of the driver. I took it because I wanted to show you all what some Chinese mens' fingernails look like. See his thumb? I've seen men shaping their fingernails with emory boards. Not all their nails are long, usually just one or two on each hand. I don't have a clue why this is, I'm sure there is a practical reason behind it. However, I've also noticed that this habit is more prominent in the working class. I sat beside some business class men on the train and their fingernails were short and tidy. I find it especially interesting because I know I've seen portraits of past Chinese emporers and they wore their finger nails long and pointed as well.

When we arrived at the old town, Tong Li, the driver parked and we walked in. We were quickly assaulted by pedicab drivers. Chris told them we didn't need a ride, we were looking for somewhere to eat. The driver jumped on the opportunity to take us to a restaurant that he knew of. Well, I suppose restaurant is not exactly the word I'm looking for. More like, tables next to a house.


Once we arrived, we sat down and our menu was handed to us by a guy with a shaved head, a mesh shirt and a huge dragon tattoo on his back. It's ironic to see such "modern" Chinese working in a peasant restaurant (it was advertised as such.) This was our first attempt at eating roadside food, not mainstream-clean-safe restaurant food. The menu list such delacies as pigs feet. We opted for the shredded pork noodles. They were really tasty and even Connor gobbled them up.

As we sat there eating, a woman and man started yelling at a pedicab driver who had just pulled up. Suddenly the man punched the driver in the face! Not just once, but twice!! The angry, punching man was young--probably in his 30's. The pedicab driver was an elderly man, past 60 at least. It was hard for us to figure out what had happened because they were speaking the local dialect. We think the pedicab driver was being accused of running over the toes of the young man. It would seem to me that after two sucker punches in the face, they were even, right? No. The young guy proceeded to turn over the pedicab! It was so crazy to see such things happening. The kids just sat there dumbfounded. Chris went over there and stepped in. He's so brave here. I suppose there is a lot more to be brave about. He put his hand on the young man's chest and told him firmly in Chinese "Don't hit old people." He stopped trying to hit him, but he still kept at the pedicab until it was completely upside down. Then he made a big show of washing his hands. It was ridiculous. There was a huge crowd gathered around watching, but no one really tried to do anything about it. Chris helped the elderly man turn his pedicab back over and he got on and rode away. After a few moments, the police showed up but no one seemed inclined to involve them. They left without doing anything.

We began to wander around the town, seeing the sites. There were lots of little shops and plenty of people yelling "hello" at us. We found a shop that sold real antiques and Chris found a scholar's patch. Scholars wore a patch on their chest according the rank of office they held. There were 7 ranks, with some special ranks award by the emporer to significant scholars.


Here is Chris bargaining with the lady. We eventually bought it for about $35. Of course, there was no way to authenticate if it was actually a scholars patch or a reproduction. However, it looks and smells very old. Also it is embroidered on silk. We decided even if it is a reproduction, it's beautiful and we'd pay much more for such a treasure back in the states. It would be so cool if we could find all 7 patches, wouldn't it?


While Chris haggled with the shopkeeper, I had to keep the kids occupied outside. Connor is such a challenge at these little shops. He wants to pick up and touch everything. According to Chris, if an item is picked up that's as good as saying "I'm going to buy this." I'm constantly telling the kids "don't touch!" Connor loves Chairman Mao's little redbook, although we haven't bought him one yet. He always goes for them first when we stop at a shop.

Suzhou is the city of the Grand Canal. Of course, we had to take a boat ride in the canal that ran through Tong Li.


Our boat driver (are they called drivers in boats?) only spoke Chinese, but Chris translated for me as he gave us the tour. He had grown up in Tong Li and said that when he was a child the water in the canal was clean enough to drink. Now it's green.


He also said that most people have to leave the town in order to find jobs to support their families. I suppose that is the age-old story with historical small towns. The town is 300 years old, and some parts were even older.


This woman's business is ospreys. If you pay her, she will untie the ospreys and you can watch them catch a fish out of the water. I think this was the first time I'd ever seen an osprey before. They have odd colored eyes, very captivating.


These people are staring at us as we load up in the pedicabs. I've decided if they stare at us, I have every right to photograph them. See the broom the lady is holding? Many brooms here are handmade. Nothing is wasted here. We caught another couple of pedicabs to take us back to our driver. Did I mention that there is no tipping in China? It was abolished by the Communist party and it just isn't done. Chris tipped the drivers though, and they really seemed to appreciate it. This was the first time I've seen him tip since we've been there. As we were paying the drivers, three old ladies came up to with their hands outstretched. Chris and I decided that if it was practical (ei, we aren't in a mob of people) we would give beggars a little something each time. The standard practice is 1 rmb, which is only about 12.5 cents. We can do that. Chris wanted to give the boys the chance to give the ladies their money. He starts putting coins into each of the boys hands, and the ladies get even more aggressive. He had to explain to the ladies what he was doing, and then they were tickled when the kids gave them their coins. Then, Petey put his hand in his pocket and pulled out his own 3 rmb and handed those out. It was so sweet and the ladies were all smiles. I wish had a picture of their beautiful, wrinkled faces, grinning from ear to ear.

We went back to the hotel and went for a swim at the indoor pool. We all had to wear swim caps :) Dinner was the Pizza cafe again and we all fell asleep by 9:00. It was an utterly exhausting day.

Whew! It is taking me longer than I expected to get caught up. I still have Thursday to write about. I'll try to do that tonight.



I've learned that my dear friend Carol, back in Tucson, suffered an aneursym earlier this week. She's pregnant with twins. She survived and is in the hospital right now. Life is so hard sometimes. Keep her in your prayers, please.

Comments

[texastea.livejournal.com]

I will be praying for your friend and her babies. Tina, I am so enjoying your year! Thanks for sharing it all.

[mysteena.livejournal.com]

I'm glad you're enjoying it. I feel a real sense of obligation to keep my lj updated now that we've moved here! Partly it's for my family back home, but definitely for my friends too (of which you are one!) Also, I want to have a good record of this for the boys to look back on when they are older. Hopefully they'll have fond memories of this year.

[risingpheenix.livejournal.com]

Praying! That is so scary, keep us updated okay?

It's hard to comment on the rest of your adventure, I'm in such awe of all the things you guys are doing. I am amazed at Chris - not that I didn't think he took good care of you all before, but to step into a fight between two people, man. I think him speaking the language is going to ease your transition too. You sound so confident too, confident and comfortable.

[plovesbears.livejournal.com]

praying!

[heidial.livejournal.com]

Your pictures are beautiful! Yeah for Chris! He was so brave standing up for the older pedicab driver.